Based on our personal visit in October 2023. Trip type – Pilgrimage and leisure
Copyright © 2023 travelfreak.me
Rishikesh is renowned as the yoga capital of the world. It’s an ancient town situated on the banks of the Ganges and at the foothills of the Garwhal Himalayas in India’s northern state of Uttarakhand. The elevation of Rishikesh is about 1100 feet above sea level. It is a holy pilgrimage town for Hindus, and a centre for yoga, meditation, and spiritual studies.
Rishikesh has references in the skanda purana. As per legend, Lord Ram did tapa at Rishikesh for killing the demonic Ravan, his younger brother Laxman crossed the river ganga with the help of two jute ropes at the place where the current Laxman jhula bridge is located.
Rishikesh is a gateway to the higher Himalayas, especially the Char Dham yatra to Kedarnath, Badrinath, Gangotri and Yamunotri. It’s here that the Ganges flows out of the Himalayas in to the plains. The modern day Rishikesh is a bustling town of temples, yoga institutes, ashrams, hotels, adventure sports activities, markets, restaurants, cafes, and bistros. It’s a mélange of spirituality, yoga and modernity.
How to reach?
By Rail – Rishikesh railway station has been named as Yog Nagari railway station. It is situated about 4 Kms outside the town. It has direct trains to Haridwar, Barmer and Shriganganagar. Rishikesh is well connected through Haridwar (30 kms), a major rail head having direct connectivity to big cities like New Delhi, Mumbai, Lucknow, and Varanasi.
By Road – Rishikesh has excellent bus connectivity with big cities and nearby towns. Intercity buses are available at regular intervals from New Delhi’s ISBT, Kashmiri gate for Rishikesh. Tourists can also drive down to Rishikesh through NH58 from Delhi and other cities. Taxis are available for Rishikesh from Haridwar, Dehradun, New Delhi and neighbouring towns. City buses, minidors, electric autos and auto rickshaws are available for local commute.
By Air – Dehradun’s Jolly Grant Airport is the nearest Airport for Rishikesh. It is about 17 kms from Rishikesh, located at a midpoint between the cities of Dehradun and Rishikesh. Domestic airlines such as Indigo, Air India, SpiceJet and Vistara have regular flights to Dehradun from major cities in India.
Ganga ji
What to know?
Being a holy pilgrimage town, restaurants, and cafés in Rishikesh serve only vegetarian food. Alcohol and non-vegetarian food are strictly prohibited in Rishikesh. The locals speak Hindi and Garhwali languages. Some also understand and speak English. Rishikesh has a charming climate, it can be visited throughout the year, though winters being the best time to visit. While in Rishikesh, it is prudent to observe limits of dressing by wearing comfortable non revealing clothes. Short and tight clothes may attract undue attention, hence best to avoid.
Rishikesh doesn’t have a bridge over the Ganges for cars and buses. The three Jhulas in Rishikesh are pedestrian bridges with the exception of Janki Jhula having separate lanes for two wheelers and pedestrians. The only option to cross the Ganges in Rishikesh is on foot or on a two wheeler. The nearest bridge over the Ganges for cars and buses is the Ganga Barrage Bridge at Veerbhadra which is about 7 Kms south of Ram Jhula. The road to the Ganga barrage bridge passes through the dense jungle of Rajaji National Park running parallel to the east bank of the Ganges. An entry fee of Rs. 50/- per car is charged at the forest check post next to the bridge. The road is open from sunrise to sunset.
Where to stay?
Rishikesh has a wide range of stay options to suit every pocket. Foreign tourists crowd at hostels that are concentrated in the Tapovan area and near Laxman Jhula market. The popular hostels in Rishikesh are Hosteller, Zostel, Urban Nomads, Joeys and Blue Jay, Shalom is popular amongst Israeli tourists.
Ashrams are an ideal choice for spiritual seekers and yoga enthusiasts who plan to stay in Rishikesh for a longer duration. The popular Ashrams in Rishikesh are Parmarth Niketan, Swarg Ashram, Gita Bhavan, Vanprasth Ashram and Ved Niketan Dham. All of them are situated on the east bank of the Ganges besides each other. Sivananda Ashram and Kriya Yoga Ashram are situated on the west bank of the Ganges. Ashrams offer basic accommodation at reasonable cost hence they are suitable for longer stay.s They typically have a restaurant or canteen that serves satvic vegetarian food. Some ashrams conduct yoga classes and arrange spiritual discourses. Ashrams like the Parmarth Niketan also has a hospital in its campus. There is a set daily routine and a code of conduct to be followed while staying at the ashrams.
Hotels are suitable for tourists whose purpose of visiting Rishikesh is a relaxed getaway coupled with sightseeing or adventure sports. Rishikesh has a wide range of hotels like the 5 star Ananda Spa Retreat, Amayah Spa Resort, The Westin Resort and Spa all situated at Narendra Nagar, the 4 star Ganga Kinare, Elbee Ganga, Sterling Palm Bliss, Sanskriti Vedic Retreat and Lemon Tree Premier are situated on the west bank of the Ganges, the 3 star Aloha on the Ganges, GMVN Ganga Resort, Yog Niketan and Lamrin Boutique Cottages are situated on the west bank of the Ganges whereas Yog Vashisht and Nirvana Bliss are on the east bank of the Ganges.
For a budget stay, Rishikesh has many lodges concentrated around the Muni ki Reti (opposite Janki Jhula), Tapovan (opposite Laxman Jhula), main bus stand and Triveni ghat market areas.
What to see?
Rishikesh is best explored on foot due to the alleys and narrow roads. Scooters and Motorbikes are available on rent and is a good option for exploring Rishikesh. Electric Autos and regular autos are also available on the west bank of the Ganges.
Jhulas – Rishikesh has three suspension bridges called Jhulas for crossing the Ganges, the Laxman Jhula, Ram Jhula, and the Janki Jhula. There are markets around Laxman Jhula, Ram Jhula and around Janki Jhula with shops selling provisions, handicraft, woolens, apparels, souvenirs, and artefacts. The markets also have tea stalls, street food, restaurants, and cafes. The Laxman Jhula is currently under repair and renovation, a wider bridge with Glass floor is being built for an extravagant view of the Ganga. The Janki Jhula is the most recent bridge, it has separate lanes made for pedestrian and two wheeler traffic. The three bridges are a sight to behold.
Ashrams – most of the Ashrams are situated on the east bank of the Ganges, overlooking the Shivalik mountains. They are situated in a serene environment away from the hustle and bustle of Rishikesh. Ashrams are the true essence of Rishikesh. They have beautifully landscaped gardens, different types of accommodation, temple, prayer hall and canteens. Gita Bhavan Ashram also has a cloth store, a bookstore, and a restaurant in the main bazar near Ram Jhula. The restaurant serves delicious vegetarian snacks and sweets. The Parmarth Niketan Ashram has about one thousand rooms. Daily activities at the Ashram include prayers, meditation classes, satsang, kirtan, spiritual discourses and Ganga Aarti in the evening which is attended by hundreds of devotees. Holy chants, ringing bells and Aarti makes the atmosphere in and around the Ashrams truly divine.
The Chaurasi Kutia (84 huts) Ashram also known as the Beatles Ashram has become a tourist attraction. It has 84 small meditation huts. The Ashram was built by Maharishi Mahesh Yogi on a leased land parcel from the forest department. It gained international attention when the English rock band The Beatles studied meditation there in 1968. The Ashram was abandoned in 1990 and reverted to the forest department. It is now a popular place to visit in Rishikesh. The entry fee is Rs. 200/- per person for Indian Nationals and Rs. 1200/- per person for foreigners. It remains open from 10 AM to 4 PM. Chaurasi Kutia Ashram is situated at a distance of 700 meters (ten minute walk) from Janki Jhula on the eastern bank of Ganga.
Ganga Aarti – The Ganga Aarti at Triveni Ghat has become an attraction at Rishikesh and an important item on the tourist itinerary. The Triveni Ghat management has built a pavilion for devotees to attend the Aarti every day during sunrise and sunset. The sunset Aarti is attended by thousands of devotees, and tourists. It is a divine experience. The evening Aarti timings vary between 5:30 PM to 7 PM as per the season. A good idea is to start early for Triveni ghat since the way to the ghat passes through a crowded market having narrow roads leading to frequent traffic jams. Grab a seat at the pavilion by 5 PM for a great view of the Aarti. Few other Ghats such as the Parmarth Niketan Ghat near Janki Jhula also do daily Ganga Aarti.
Temples – Shri Neelkanth Mahadev Temple is an ancient Shiv temple situated on a hill in the Shivalik range at a distance of about 30 Kms from Rishikesh. The temple can also be reached on foot by climbing the stairs about 200 meters away from the back side of Beatles Ashram on Veerbhadra road. It takes about 4.5 hours to reach the temple on foot. Shared jeeps are available for the temple from the taxi stand on the east bank of the Ganges behind Parmarth Niketan Ashram.
Bharat Mandir is an ancient temple of Lord Rishikesh Narayan in the heart of Rishikesh near the Triveni Ghat. The temple is believed to be the most ancient and sacred temple in Rishikesh. The idol of the presiding deity is believed to be installed by Jagadguru Adi Shankaracharya on the day of Basant Panchami in 789 AD.
Bhootnath Temple is another ancient temple dedicated to Lord Shiva situated at a secluded place just behind Swarg Ashram at a distance of 1 Km. The temple is believed to be the resting place of the Lord just before getting married to goddess Parvati. Since Lord Shiva was accompanied by demons to this place, and Lord Shiva, also being the god of demons, the temple is called as Bhootnath temple.
The thirteen story Trimbakeshwar temple situated besides Laxman Jhula on the east bank of the Ganges is a significant landmark of Rishikesh. Unlike other Hindu temples that are dedicated to a single deity, the Trimbakeshwar temple enshrines idols of many Hindu god and goddesses. The temple was founded by Adi Guru Shankaracharya in the 12th century. The magnificent ISKCON temple inside Madhuban Ashram close to Janki Jhula on the western bank of Ganga is worth a visit. The temple resembles closely with the Lord Jagannath temple in Puri, Orissa.
River beaches – Rishikesh has some beautiful river beaches. The Ganga beach is near Ram Jhula on the east bank of the Ganges. Tourists flock to this beach in the morning and evening for their slice of the amazing views and for taking selfies. The Nim beach is besides the Haridwar Badrinath road ahead of Laxman Jhula on the west bank of the Ganges. It is an end point of river rafting in Rishikesh. Diagonally opposite on the east bank of the Ganges is the Goa beach, a perfect place for solitude, serene walks, and sunbathing.
Waterfalls – Rishikesh has some popular waterfalls like the Neer Waterfall also known as Neer Garh or Neer Gaddu waterfall. It is situated near Kuee village about 7 Kms from Laxman Jhula. The waterfall can be reached through a picturesque jungle trail filled with wildflowers. The water gushes down a rock cliff into a pond beneath creating a scenic view. Visitors plunge into the pond for a dip in its cool water. There’s an entry fee of Rs. 30/- per person. There are small wooden bridges built near the pond for visitors to admire the beauty of the waterfall. There are food stalls near the waterfall that serve snacks, beverages and Tibetan food.
The Patna Waterfall is about 3.5 kms from Laxman Jhula near the Patna village on the Neelkanth road. The trail to this waterfall has a challenging gradient passing through the dense forest of Rajaji National Park. The waterfall is an escape to serenity from the hustle and bustle of Rishikesh. A little ahead on Neelkanth road is the Garud Chatti waterfall which can be reached through a 1.5 Kms jungle trail from the Garud temple on Neelkanth road. Phool Chatti is another waterfall situated about 3 Kms from Garud Chatti waterfall on Neelkanth road. The three waterfalls can be covered by hiring a jeep enroute Neelkanth Mahadev temple.
Adventure Sports – Rishikesh is a hotspot for adventure junkies seeking to experience some of the best and most challenging rapids and river rafting expeditions in the Ganges. There are numerous adventure sport companies offering river rafting in Rishikesh, they typically charge about Rs. 600/- per person for 10 Kms and Rs. 1000/- per person for 16 Kms. There are different sections for river rafting depending upon the grade of the rapid and length of the stretch e.g. Brahmpuri to Nim beach and Shivpuri to Nim beach.
Other adventure sports to try in Rishikesh are Bungee Jumping, Kayaking, Zip lining, Flying Fox, Giant Swing and Camping. Adventurush, Thrill factory, Jumpin Heights are popular for bungee jumping, they typically charge around Rs. 3000/- per person for a bungee jump. The jump height is about 80 meters. The jump platforms are at two different locations near Rishikesh, one at Mohan Chatti village (15 Kms. From Laxman Jhula) and the other at Shivpuri village. The age limit for Bungee jumping is from 12 yrs. to 45 yrs. and weight limit is from 40 kgs. To 110 kgs.
What to eat?
Rishikesh is a pure vegetarian town with plenty of food options. The best street food in Rishikesh is available at the promenade on the Ganges from Janki Jhula to Ram Jhula. Aloo Tikki Chaat, Kachori, Paratha, Chhole Bhature, Aloo Poori, Momo’s, Lassi and Jalebi are some of the not to be missed delicacies at Rishikesh. The Aloo Tikki Chaat and Matri Chaat on the street side thelas (carts) are the best.
Restaurants – Chotiwala restaurant near Ram Jhula on the eastern bank of the Ganges is standing tall since 1958, it serves some of the authentic Garwahli dishes like the Aloo ke Gutke, Kafuli Saag (palak methi blend vegetable), Gahat ki Daal (Horse gram or Kulith in Marathi or Kulthi in Hindi) and a delightful dessert called Singodi. Don’t miss the Lassi here. Gita Bhavan Sweet Shop on the promenade near Ram Jhula is popular for its pure desi ghee sweets. The Laddus, Jalebi, Pedha, Kaju Katli here are divine. The Kachori and Chhole Bhature here are too good. Swadishtam, Hare Krishna Bhog, Topiwala and Jai Gurudev restaurants on the promenade are good for Indian snacks and meals.
The Sitting Elephant restaurant at Hotel Elbee Ganga is a vegetarian multicuisine fine dine restaurant offering lip smacking Indian, Garhwali, Pan Asian, and Continental cuisines. On the same Lines, the Jal and Jalebi restaurant at Hotel Ganga Kinare is a good vegetarian multi cuisine fine dine restaurant. Hotel Ganga Kinare also boasts of Varr, a restaurant that serves temple food of India. Dining at Varr is a divine experience, their smoky lassi is popular.
Street Food – Aloo Tikki
Sky dining – The Skymax Lounge at Rishikesh offers a unique dining experience of a five or seven course meal in the Air about 100 feet above the Ganges. Pre booking is required. Charges are around Rs. 3000/- per person.
Cafes and Bistros – Little Buddha Café is the most popular café in Rishikesh in the main market near Laxman Jhula. It has a cozy ambience and offers magnificent views of the Ganges in the backdrop of Laxman Jhula and the Trimbakeshwar Temple. The Café is frequented by foreigners. Ganga View Café, Om Freedom Café, Free Spirit Café, Pure Soul Café, and German Bakery are a few other well-known cafes in Rishikesh. The Cafés serve continental, Indian, Pan Asian, and Mediterranean cuisines such as Salads, Burgers, Pizzas, Falafel, Pancakes, Pastas, Cakes, Pastries, Croissants, Sandwiches and Coffee.
What to shop?
Rishikesh has markets near Janki Jhula, Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula and near Triveni Ghat. Gita Bhavan Cloth Store near Ram Jhula is a good place for shopping woollens and shawls. Gita Bhavan also has a book shop on the promenade selling spiritual books. The market on the promenade between Janki Jhula and Ram Jhula has shops selling souvenirs, bags, khadi and cotton apparel, handicrafts, rosaries and conches, gems and jewelries, ayurvedic products, provisions, and artefacts. Look for original sandalwood and shaligram stones at the shops selling souvenirs.
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