Bhandardara

….. Rajesh Deshpande © 2024. Based upon multiple visits since September 2012, latest being in August 2024.

Destination Type – Hill Station. Trip Type – Leisure or Adventure.

Bhandardara is a hill station in the Ahmednagar district of Maharashtra. Located about 165 Kms from Mumbai and Pune and about 70 Kms from Nashik, it is nestled between the majestic Sahyadri mountain ranges. Bhandardara is a blend of natural beauty, lush greenery, invigorating air, roaring waterfalls, sky high mountains and pristine ambiance, as if time has stopped here. It is an ideal destination to unwind, breathe in some fresh air, experience the grandeur of nature, click some amazing pictures, make videos or just do nothing. The more adventurous souls can go trekking in the Sahyadris for that gush of adrenalin.

The sights on the way to Bhandardara are truly spectacular, they are a treat for the eyes. During monsoons, lush green paddy fields create a contrast to the blue skies and cirrus clouds above. The murky brown streams flowing down the mountains gush across the entire landscape. Nature lays a green carpet on earth in which the yellow sonki flowers bloom. There’s fog all around and the wind is chilling. Soon after monsoon, the atmosphere gets energised when sun rays peep in between the scattering clouds. The sights become breath taking and the experience becomes truly exhilarating. Mount Kalsubai, the highest peak in Maharashtra, at about 5500 ft. high is a must see sight on a clear day from Bari village situated on the road to Bhandardara.

How to reach?

By Rail – the nearest railhead is Igatpuri (45 Kms). Many trains plying on the Mumbai Nashik route of the central railway halt at Igatpuri. From Igatpuri, share taxis, auto rickshaws and State transport buses are easily available.

By Road – while coming from Mumbai, take a right turn for Sinnar at Ghoti, about 2 Kms after the Ghoti toll plaza on the NH 160 (old NH 3) Mumbai Nashik Highway. While coming from Nashik, take a left turn for Sinnar at Ghoti. Drive about 8 Kms ahead on the Ghoti Sinnar road up to Bhandardara phata and turn right for Bhandardara, drive 23 Kms from here to reach Bhandardara.  While coming from Pune, take the Pune Nashik highway up to Narayangaon. From Narayangaon, take a left turn for Ozar and drive through Otur, Kotul and Rajur to reach Bhandardara. It takes about 4 hrs. to reach Bhandardara from Mumbai, 5 hrs. from Pune and about 1.5 hrs. from Nashik.

By Air – Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport in Mumbai is the nearest airport (about 165 Kms away).

Where to Stay?

Bhandardara is a small village having limited stay options. The MTDC resort is the oldest and the most popular and affordable place to stay. The resort provides variety of accommodation from Standard Non-AC rooms, Deluxe AC rooms, AC Cottages and Dormitory. There’s an in house restaurant which serves local Maharashtrian fare. As always MTDC wins for its location, the resort offers stunning views of the placid Arthur Lake from the Deluxe rooms and cottages. Rooms in the resort can be booked online through MTDC website. Room rates vary from Rs. 1500/- for a standard room up to Rs. 7000/- for a deluxe room or cottage.

Hotel New Samadhan besides MTDC resort is a good place for a short stay. It has an in house restaurant and provides accommodation in economy and deluxe rooms, family suite and dam view cottages ranging between Rs. 4000/- to Rs. 8000/- per night.

Hosteller is a popular backpacker budget stay on Ghatghar road. It offers solo cabanas, premium cottages, standard, deluxe and superior huts and dormitory accommodation ranging from Rs. 2000/- to Rs. 12000/- per night including breakfast.

Bhandardara also has few luxury resorts that are best suited for the super swanks who don’t mind burning a hole in their pocket. The swanky Anandvan Resort, Yash Resort, or the new ones like Anand Sarovar Resort, Wanderlust Resort and Wildroots Resort are an ideal choice for a luxurious staycation. All of these resorts are 3 or 4 star properties and weekend room rents here cost anywhere between Rs. 6,000/- to Rs. 15,000/- per night including breakfast for a couple. During weekdays, these resorts offer heavily discounted room rent.

The money conscious or an avid solo traveller can choose to stay in an home stay. Off late many new home stays have opened up that provide good accommodation at a reasonable price. Preferably, choose an MTDC approved home stay. The adventure seeking tourist can choose to stay in one of the many tent camps that open during winters (the high season) in and around Bhandardara.

What to eat?

As with stay, food options too are limited in Bhandardara. Local Maharashtrian fare of Pithala or Zunka (a blend of gram flour paste and spices cooked with oil) Bhakri (bread made of rice or jowar flour), vegetables and curries is what veggies can look for. Non vegetarians can relish upon chicken curry, mutton curry, egg masala or crabs. Many restaurants at Shendi phata serve all day snacks, tea, breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant inside MTDC resort serves good Maharashtrian style thali meals. Snacks like batata bhajji, kanda bhajji, vada pav, misal are readily available at restaurants in and around Shendi phata. Packaged snacks and drinking water is easily available at many shops in Bhandardara.

Things to do

Bhandardara is an ideal place for a lazy staycation amidst nature. During monsoons, tourists go waterfall hopping in and around Bhandardara. In winters, lakeside camping around Arthur Lake has become popular. The lakeside camps have a fixed itinerary that includes boating in Arthur lake, barbecue dinner, campfire and staying in tents. Adventure companies in Mumbai, Nashik, Pune and some locals in Bhandardara arrange trekking in the nearby mountains. Popular treks around Bhandardara include the Kalsubai trek, AMK (Alang, Madan, Kulang) trek, Ratangad to Harishchandragad range trek, Ajoba hill, Ghanchakkar hill, Baan pinnacle and Sandhan valley trek or camping at Samrad village. Bhandardara also hosts the Kajwa Mohatsav (fireflies festival) every year between 15th May to 15th June. City dwellers from Mumbai, Pune and Nashik flock to see the visual extravaganza of fire flies after dark during the festival.

Important Info

Hiring a local guide for sightseeing or waterfall hopping is highly recommended since the trails are confusing and the jungle is dense. Return to hotel before sunset as it gets dark pretty early, especially in winters due to the high mountains in and around Bhandardara. The locals in Bhandardara speak Marathi. Hindi is understood and spoken as well. The tourist guides typically charge Rs. 700/- (negotiated fee as in August 2024) for an excursion to some of the popular spots in and around Bhandardara. All these spots can be covered within a day.

Places to see

Bhandardara is truly a place for wanderers, nature lovers and a delight for trekkers. Surrounded by sky high mountains, Bhandardara enlivens in the monsoons with an energised atmosphere which lasts till the onset of summers in March. Picnickers, trekkers, honeymooners and tourists visit Bhandardara to experience the many wonders it has. With the exception of Randha fall, all  the waterfalls and the ancient Amruteshwar temple are in the Kalsubai Harishchandragad forest reserve. The forest department has a check post little ahead of the Wilson dam spill gate. A fee of Rs. 100/- per car and Rs. 30/- per person has to be paid for entering the forest reserve.

During monsoons, the spill gates of Wilson dam are gradually lifted to allow the excess water to spill out in to the Pravara river. The rhythmic spills of water create a spectacular view, a sight not to be missed.

Waterfalls – The Kalsubai Harishchandragad forest reserve near Bhandardara has one of the most spectacular waterfalls which fall in full glory during monsoons. The most popular waterfalls are the Vasundhara fall and the Koltembhe fall also known as Bahubali fall. A mini trek of about a kilometre is required from the road to reach these waterfalls. The forest department has done a commendable job of constructing mud trails, pavements and small arc bridges over the gushing streams for the comfort of tourists visiting the waterfalls. The magnificent Nhani fall is about a mile ahead, it can be viewed from the road or can be closely viewed by climbing few stairs up to a viewing bridge built right in front of the waterfall. About 2 Kms from here is the Necklace fall which is visible from the road itself.

Vasundhara waterfall video

Arthur Lake – this magnificent lake is fed by the water of Pravara river and the numerous waterfalls from the surrounding mountains. Its tranquil waters are truly mesmerising. The vast expanse of the lake spans about 24 Kms. Arthur lake is also the reservoir of Wilson dam.

Wilson Dam – an engineering marvel built by the British in the year 1926 on the Pravara river stands 150 meters high, it is the largest earthen dam in India. It holds enough water for the entire Ahmednagar district for the whole year. It is a testimonial to the vision of the British officers and planners of the era bygone.

Umbrella Fall – is not a natural waterfall. It appears when water released from the flood gates of Wilson dam fall on a hemispherical rock outside the dam wall creating a delusion of an umbrella. The water is released in the month of August after the dam overflows due to heavy rainfall in the region.

Randha Fall – is 10 Kms away from Bhandardara on the Rajur highway. The waterfall presents a stunning view as it falls in a gorge while creating a roaring sound. It has been featured in many Bollywood movies. The Randha fall and the nearby Katalapur fall waters flow down in to the Pravara river irrigating the villages in Ahmednagar district. A parking fee of Rs. 50/- per car has to be paid at Randha fall. The Randha fall area has well constructed ghats, pavements and view points. The temple of a local deity named Ghorpada Devi is right on the banks of Pravara river near Randha fall. There are many stalls and shops selling snacks and eatables along the pavement.

Amruteshwar temple – is an ancient Shiva temple carved in stone sometime in the 12^th or 13^th century CE in the village of Ratanwadi, 15 Kms away from Bhandardara. The temple is facing the west. There are two Nandi’s on the east side of the temple. There’s a Shiv ling in the garbh griha which remains submerged in water most of the time. The temple is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Ratanwadi is also the base village for the trek to Ratangad fort. The trek is moderately challenging. Amruteshwar can also be reached by an 8 Km boat ride across the Arthur lake from Bhandardara, which reduces travel time significantly. The boat rides are irregular in monsoons.

Ghatghar Dam – is another dam about 28 Kms away from Bhandardara on the opposite side of Wilson Dam, it is worth a visit for the stunning views of Sandhan valley and Kokan kada nearby.

Trekking Activities – the Bhandardara region is a trekkers paradise. The most popular trek amongst trekkers is the range trek from Ratangad to Harishchandragad. Harishchandragad is known for its breath taking views of the surrounding Konkan region from the Konkan kada (cliff) and also for the Harishchandreshwar temple and the Kedareshwar cave. Other fascinating treks are the AMK (Alang, Mandangad, Kulang) trek and the mount Kalsubai trek which are very challenging and requires good physical endurance.

Around Bhandardara

The Kalsubai Harishchandragad forest reserve around Bhandardara is a vast area covered by dense forest and high mountains. It takes almost the whole day to travel and see the numerous waterfalls and the Amruteshwar temple at Ratanwadi. After a heavy dose of nature’s bounties it becomes tiring to explore anything else. On the next day, the adventure seekers may go for a trek to Ratangad or proceed to Samrad village for exploring Sandhan valley (alike the Grand Canyon), camp there or rappel down the valley. The enthusiastic traveller may explore the nearby Igatpuri region. The famous Bhavli dam and the two Bhavli waterfalls are just 35 Kms away from Bhandardara and it takes about an hour and half to reach there through the winding hilly roads. The popular Ashoka waterfall is another attraction in Igatpuri. The Railway Dam near the Igatpuri railway station is also worth a visit. The spiritually inclined souls may visit the famous Vipasana centre in Igatpuri or visit Shree Gajanan Maharaj Mutt and Kapilteerth little ahead near Kavnai fort. Take a left turn on Mumbai Nashik highway (towards Nashik) at Khambale village near Ghoti and drive on Ghoti Trymbak road. About 3 Kms ahead take a right turn for Kapilteerth at Waki village. Shri Gajanan Maharaj Mutt is about 5.5 Kms from here.

Visit Bhandardara

Bhandardara is a less explored and less crowded hill station in Maharashtra compared to Lonavla, Khandala, Mahabaleshwar and Matheran. It is pristine and less commercialised compared to other hill stations. Bhandardara is a must visit for experiencing tranquility and nature’s pristine beauty.

—

Rajesh Deshpande © 2024